TraditionalPhotographer.NET / On Photography / Architectural Photography

Just so I am not outdone by Gramps....

Jorge Gasteazoro — Thu, 08 May 2008 21:04:17 GMT

Here is the result from my test of the photobackpacker backpack. This little chappel is in the middle of a ravine where you have to hike for an hour and a half to get to it. The back pack is great, the first time I went there, I was so tired that all the pictures were terrible, what a difference a good back pack makes.

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z197/jorge1966_photo/Ebay%20Prints/peita.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z197/jorge1966_photo/Ebay%20Prints/peitacross.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z197/jorge1966_photo/Ebay%20Prints/peitadoor.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z197/jorge1966_photo/Ebay%20Prints/peitacandles.jpg[/IMG]

Cement Elevators

eric rose — Thu, 08 May 2008 08:06:21 GMT

Took this last weekend while out with an ULF buddy. Yes Jorge I actually do associate with the ULF crowd. I even have the patience to wait for them to get it all setup. Actually we kind of work on his images together as he is still learning. Wonderful Canham 8x20. Anyway now getting back to my image. I use Efke PL100 souped in PyroCat-HD. Green filter over the lens to bring out the faded yellow lettering on the cement structure. 300mm Rodenstock lens.

[img]http://www.apug.org/gallery/data/2/cement_elevators.jpg[/img]

I'm going to have to go back and reshoot some images as I fogged them while developing. Duh.

Pyramiden - abandoned russian settlement

Eirik Berger — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:45:29 GMT

From the russian settlement Pyramiden (The pyramid) on Svalbard. Abandoned in 1998. Image taken in march 2007. Notice the pair of skies in the bottom of the pool.

I have made it a personal project to document this place, both the interiors of the buildings and the outside area. The buildings are locked, but I have been granted access by the russian mine company that owns the town.

Tech info: Toyo 45CF, 4x5", Velvia 100F, Apo Sironar S 135mm

[img]http://www.burmeser.no/images/barnebasseng.jpg[/img]

Interior photography with existing/mixed light

Eirik Berger — Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:03:48 GMT

I have done quite a lot of interior photography in my time, but most often with studio flashes mixed with daylight. This causes small problems since the difference in color temperature is relatively small.

A german furniture manufacturer contacted me a few days ago, asking me if I could take interor images from the new terminal building here in Longyearbyen. They have delivered the furniture and wanted this project in their references since this is the northernmost airport (with regular traffic) in the world.

This job requiers me to think a little different. The far wall in the room is all window from floor to ceiling, which will cause problems if I am not careful with the placement of my lighting. The client wants this window to be a part of the image, and they want to show the blue arctic atmosphere on the outside, something like [url=http://www.monochrome.no/images/section_images/46.jpg]this[/url]. The room is lit by a huge number of halogen spots from the ceiling, this is an image [url=http://www.svalbardposten.no/images/Nyhetsbilder/Svalbardkiosken.jpg]from the opening in september[/url]. My images will be closer to te window showing more of it.

For this projekt I will use 4x5" camera with film, and polaroid for exposure control. What film I will use depends a bit on what strategy I go for.

---- To the point ----

Is it sensible to consider doing this job with only existing light? It is quite a difference in color temperature on the inside and outside light. The 3200K (or so) halogen with the 10000++K outside light. It is also a difference in light intensity with the outside light very low even in the middle of the day. A normal exposure measured for the indoor light would leave the windows nearly black.

I am considering trying a method of multiple exposures, where I first do an exposure for the outside with all indoor lightening turned off. When this is done I turn on the indoor light and do a second exposure. If I use a daylight film I will use a color converting filter for the second exposure, if I use a tungsten film I dont think about using filters at neither of the exposures, or maybe a warming filter (85) on the first one to prevent the outside to be extremely blue.

Have any of you any experience of shooting interiors this way? Any advise an practical tips will be appreciated.

(I don´t have eny "hot-lights" er other halogen lights available, I guess the (300W) modelling lamps on my flashes could serve as continous lighting if I need a little help in some parts of my image.)